21 October 2026

Split

 

Last time, I promised to save the Split story for later. Well, later is here. Sarajevo has had its feature, and Split has been quietly waiting its turn, which is very on-brand for it.

 

I went in December, which is not when anyone would advise it. The season was winding down, the wind off the Adriatic had plenty of opinions, and the cafés had tucked their chairs under blankets. But I'm hard-headed like that, plus I didn't have many other options anyway (?). 


It was cold and a little grey, and tbh, I didn't expect much, but Split gave me far more.. unearthing the eternal, seasonal, personal question that usually, conveniently comes during Christmas holidays (especially when spent away from home).. do I even know what I want, at this point?

 

I guess (definitely) not.

 


But Split did show a sneak peek of how and what it looks like to know what matters. Case in point: the story of Emperor Diocletian’s palace. Around the year 300, after ruling most of the known world, he built a retirement palace on this coast. When his old colleagues begged and talked him out of returning to power, he told them that "if they could see the cabbages he was growing, they would never ask". Mannn, it stings. For someone who has held everything and still picks a vegetable patch.. the guy knows exactly what he wants. And we envy that.


Only in my wildest dreams I wish I could reach half of that point in my life. haha



Diocletian chose his cabbages. He knew exactly what they wanted. 


And here I am, doing PhD (and whining).

 

Oh, life 😊