24 January 2023

Tirana

 

Impulsively booking plane tickets (again) in the midst of one boring afternoon class, sugarcoating it as a birthday gift for myself, I found myself traveling to Albania.  Specifically, Tirana, a city once wrapped in the cloak of communism, undergone a huge transformation, and emerged as a metropolis bursting with life and a kaleidoscope of hues.

My arrival in Tirana was fraught with misfortunes. To start things off, the moment I descended from the plane, the notorious French data provider I happen to be subscribed to saw fit to scamper away with my euros, leaving me with a huge bill thereafter (shout out to Prixtel, you filthy bunch of scammers!). I outright lost a staggering 50+ euros, the price I had to pay for not turning off my mobile data connection. Having such a situation beyond my control, I just hopped on a bus from the airport without any LEKs, which was also, not recommended. When I reached the city center, I made a conscious effort to reset,  move on, and once and for all forget about all my misfortunes in the last couple of hours.

 

The first line of business: find good food. It was already past lunchtime so I needed to quell my hunger pangs with a satisfying meal. I aimlessly wandered through Rruga Murat Toptani, a pedestrian street with verdant foliage and inviting cafes, where I eventually found respite for my famished soul. The dish I had, and all the other things that came with it, were enormous. And I was pleasantly surprised by the price, in the end. I paid less than 15 euros for an entire meal; consequence of Tirana's immunity from the inflation in Schengen. 


After eating, I strolled around the neighborhood; of resplendent architecture, exceptional museums, and verdant parks. After a quick strolling around enough to have a good feeling about the city, I decided to check in to my hostel, where I paid for a bed at an all-time-low, record-breaking price. That day, I was sharing a room with three other travelers who had been ensconced in the city for more than a month already for various reasons such as awaiting job prospects, extolling the virtues of residing in this affordable haven. I had no choice but to engage in casual conversations which is really not my thing. Nevertheless, I gleaned insights into the heart and soul of Tirana. I would be leaving the next day and clearly, I did not have enough time (proven right in no time), so I decided to go out and explore the city instead of resting for a bit more (in addition to the fact that my social battery was draining faster than expected). 

 

I went on a self-guided walking tour (thanks to Google maps) that led me to the heart of Tirana—Skanderbeg Square, an expansive park, encircled by majestic mosques and stately statues bedecked with expansive lawns, venerable arboreal sentinels, and blossoming flowerbeds. The park pays homage to the indomitable national hero, Georg Kastriot Skanderbeg, who valiantly thwarted the inexorable advance of the Ottoman Empire in place of the once-imposing visage of Josef Stalin. There stood the resolute Skanderbeg Monument, an emblem of the city's transformative odyssey. Adjacent to Skanderbeg Square are a treasure trove of Tirana's landmarks, from the National Historical Museum, to the elegant Palace of Culture, and the resplendent Et'hem Bey Mosque, with the timeless Clock Tower, and the National Library. 

 

Before sunset, I walked a bit farther, in hopes of visiting the Pyramid of Tirana, which unfortunately was closed due to renovation. I just decided to view it from afar. Once the Enver Hoxha Museum, the pyramid now serves as a venue for exhibitions and conferences, evoking intense debates about its future fate. I then took a brief detour and stumbled upon Tanners' Bridge, a relic from the 18th-century Ottoman era, bearing witness to the city's historical connections, serving as a  reminder of a bygone era, literally a bridge to antiquity and modernity, highlighting Tirana's rapid evolution.


And so the day waned, I retired to my room, and savored the quick but meaningful experiences that had unfolded the entire day. It was a cold, rainy night, which necessitated a warm, restful sleep in my 8-euro bed. The following morning, rain poured even heavier. However, I decided to walk to the bus station to have one more glimpse of the greater part of the city. While some treasures eluded my grasp, such as the intriguing Bunk'Art Museum, I vowed to one day return and explore more of the rich culture that Tirana offers.