It
used to be all praises when I wrote about my Sagada travel six years ago because
that was my truth. But truth changes with time sometimes. Some truths just turn
out to be harder to tell upon learning more and eventually knowing better.
~ ~ ~
A few times before, when people ask me about how I learned about Sagada as a travel destination, I sort of lie. I would typically reply I don't really remember because it leads me to an embarrassing event back in high school. During the NSPC 2007 in Baguio City, I instantly blew my chances to win due to a stupid mistake, which I ever since associated with my early memories of being introduced to Sagada, after overhearing other participants going there after the competition. The place remained a mystery to me all those years since then and the entire idea of seeing hanging coffins kept that flame and thought of one day being there. Fast forward to six years later, I finally had the perfect opportunity to tick that mystery off my list, a total dopamine hit of cultural experience. Had extensive documentation of that encounter as well; here, here, here, here, here, and there.
~ ~ ~
Too fast how another six years have come and gone. And I was embraced around Sagada’s loving arms for the second time.
Our group started hitting the road by
midnight, targeted to arrive at our first destination by morning the next day.
Guess your guess was good as mine, things didn’t work as planned. The mad
tales about the Nueva Vizcaya roads still hold true during our visit. Heavily behind the itinerary already, we still took a time
off for breakfast in a stop at Aritao by 7AM yawning and stretching after a
good seven hours hitting the road. In no time, we rolled again until we reached the
fabled eighth wonder of the world known as Banaue Rice Terraces and I took some quality minutes to appreciate the artistry of our ancestry. Not long after, we resumed our way through the treacherous roads over the
mountains and finally made it to our
destination at around 2 o’clock. We hopped for a quick Echo
Valley tour to have the Sagada-feels and a quick Sumaguing cave venture to
maximize the remainder of the day.
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Ever
boasting its grandeur sans the hype and attention it raked post That Thing Called Tadhana, Sagada is a beauty to behold except for a few deviations
noticeably evident compared to its six-years-ago-version. Comparison is
a thief of joy but can’t help to do so. One glaring difference is the
seemingly less green and more shadowy jagged Sagada hills. It’s still the same sleepy community that it used to be but the
ongoing building activities within the area made it a little more
alive but not in a very ok way. Progress is on its way but at the expense of
some good things that define and cut Sagada from the rest – simplicity, authenticity,
and its mad reserved state.
Cliché, change is inevitable. But somehow, Sagada hasn’t really changed for the better, the Echo Valley is a perfect
example; most of the trails have deteriorated to a couple of folds, showing
clear signs of the handful of negligent visitors and the messy, wide, and receding trails. Then there was this rock-climbing spot
recently installed in the area which was cringy as well. The Hanging Coffins were now heavily guarded
with fences implying negative stuff rampant in the area. Don’t get me started
with the closure of Kiltepan; as heard from the grapevine, was bombed. Truth or not, I believe we will all
agree that Kiltepan is nowhere near good given all the stresses it suffered in the past years.
While I may say that Sagada is still as breathtaking as it was, it could soon be in danger given its current state.I think that this should never be a case of "it’s the way things go, and that’s all there
is to it" but "it’s something that needs
not just to be worried about, but also needs
to be done something about".
~ ~ ~
I have no wish to give the slightest impression that Sagada is no more worth a try. In fact, I would be more than glad to return, myself. But the heavy influx of tourists has taken its toll on the place, which is also true for most other tourist destinations at this age. As we are part of the cause for what it has become, it is likewise our responsibility to make it better again.
Later that night, we spent the rest of the day over good stories catching up, under the cold night sky. We then attempted a hike towards Marlboro/Blue Soil before the sunrise the next day but rain poured down hard. Instead, we wrapped up the trip by visiting some of the spots I missed during my first time in Sagada such as Weaving & Pottery, the serene Lake Danum, and a quick yogurt indulgence.
~ ~ ~
Finally,
we took another round of rides across those mountainous roads back to our
regular sequence of checklists, actions, and respites.
With this trip I had one
outstanding realization: in traveling, it’s essential to always bring our
curious eyes, sharp ears, and caring hearts; to constantly try to see,
listen, and feel what nature tries to show, compels us to hear, and endeavors to sense.
Take a time off to step back to absorb and soak everything we see and feel and
taste while traveling. There’s always something more than
meets the eye, the ear, and the heart.
