Sarajevo

The Eternal Flame of Sarajevo — a memorial dedicated to the victims and heroes of WWII, located at the intersection of Ferhadija & Titova streets, was unveiled to honor those who lost their lives during the liberation of the city from fascist occupation, and remains one of Sarajevo’s most important historical landmarks.

Much has been said about Dubrovnik in the past (at least in this site), so I’ll save the new story about it for another time. Split stayed with me too, surprisingly bright, historic, and full of life even in winter. But Sarajevo stood out differently. It felt heavier, deeper, and for some reason, closer to my heart, more than just because it was my last stop during my Christmas trip in 2025. Two days spent there were far too short, but still I was lucky enough to have a glimpse and feel the city’s complicated soul, filled with stories of pain, perseverance, and a surprising kind of warmth. I liked it mainly becasue it doesn’t pretend to be perfect (words not mine). From how the guide I met put it, the city carries its scars openly, almost with pride. Truth is, it looks messy (figuratively), but too real and honest in a way that feels deeply human.
 
Sarajevo is surrounded by mountains, as if both protected and enclosed by them. In fact, its airport’s runway, several pilots say, is one of the hardest to land on because of this. That explains the sharp and quiet December air, foggy most of the time. It's a fitting backdrop for how things felt the moment I stepped off the tram and found myself right across the Latin Bridge that very morning. Right then and there, where that one defining moment changed world history -- how one act set off events no one could stop at the time. I was just beyond words to stand exactly where WWI began. Literally had goosebumps. It’s strange to look at the calm river and imagine everything that unfolded around it. I could feel the city’s weight getting heavier each passing second. More than that, there was somethng else, not sorrow exactly, but something deeper, words couldn’t quite define.

 
For a good few hours, I wandered aimlessly through the streets and noticed how the city seemed to change every few steps. In one corner, there were the peaceful Ottoman courtyards and old mosques. Down another street rose the neat lines and pastel facades of Austro-Hungarian buildings. Then came the gray apartment blocks from the Yugoslav years. Together they were like a patchwork that shouldn’t make sense but somehow does, especially upon learning the history behind. In just two days, I tried to take in as much as I could. I lingered by the Eternal Flame, letting its quiet sink in. Then came the hardest part, which was leaving, feeling that I had only begun to understand what the city wanted to tell. Two days were definitely not enough, heck, maybe no visit ever is. Sarajevo is one of those places not just to see but to return to. I hope to go back someday, to see how the city continues to heal. But for now, I brought with me mixed feelings about it. On one hand, some sadness for what has happened, but on the other, a deep respect for what endured.