Embarking on foreign travel has become an elusive and nearly impossible feat in recent times. Still, no thanks to covid. However, fortune smiled upon me when I stumbled upon a rare opportunity to journey to Ankara, Turkey—an unlikely destination that had only resided in the recesses of my memory from those days when memorizing the capital cities was a necessity. Little did I know that this unforeseen detour, a prerequisite side trip, would turn out well and fine, before reaching my intended destination. Despite the uncertainties surrounding obtaining a Turkish visa and the disconcerting news of terrorist attacks and geopolitical tensions in recent years, my determination remained unscathed, because well, this one is required.
Two weeks of immersion in this city was enough to
have a glimpse of the rich Anatolian culture – from their fascinating
architecture, unique regards to traditional arts, good food, and even Turks’ borderline
short temper. Everywhere I turned, I was greeted by captivating architecture that whispered stories of the past; from the grandeur of historic landmarks to the humble abodes tucked away in winding alleyways, each structure bore witness to a rich and storied heritage. But it was not just the physical beauty that enraptured me; it was the profound reverence for traditional arts that permeated every corner of Ankara. Whether it was the melodic strains of traditional music, the delicate brushstrokes of masterful paintings, or the intricate craftsmanship of handmade crafts, the city embraced its cultural legacy with unwavering pride.
They’ve got fast cars, fast enough to fly away
I’ll start with the thing I like the least
about Ankara – the abundance of cars.
This car-centric environment reflected Ankara's fervent passion for driving. Residents took their time behind the wheel seriously, embracing a "fast and furious" mentality. The swift pace of driving demanded extra caution from pedestrians, who had to navigate the streets with vigilance as vehicles rushed by in a perpetual hurry.
The intensity of Ankara's driving culture was further evident in the behavior of taxi drivers. During my taxi rides, I frequently witnessed heated disputes between drivers, accounting for a staggering 75% of my experiences. These confrontations, often over trivial matters, added tension and reminded me of the precarious nature of Ankara's roadways.
While the abundance of cars and the driving culture were aspects I disliked about Ankara, they shed light on the city's unique dynamics. The parking habits and driving fervor showcased the vibrant energy that permeated the streets, reflecting a society in constant motion with a sense of dynamism and urgency. Nevertheless, pedestrians should exercise caution and be aware of the distinct driving culture when navigating the bustling thoroughfares of the city.
Wraps and Rolls
On the slightly plus corner is the extensive Turkish food options. Going for dine-ins most of the time
for two weeks around Kizilay and Kavaklidere, I still could not sufficiently
claim that I was able to experience Ankara food enough to give a fair review, but
enough to grow tired of it altogether. On the exceptional downside, is their
huge affinity to food wrappers which was too beyond my preference. The extensive choice
of kneaded, shaped, and rolled foods – like quesadillas, tavuklu wraps, baklavas
even – are best suited for lumpia shippers and turon stans for sure, but not
for me, unfortunately.
Despite my reservations about the wrapped food culture, it is important to note that Ankara's culinary landscape offers much more than what I was able to explore. The city undoubtedly holds hidden gems and local specialties that I regrettably did not have the chance to fully discover. From traditional Turkish delights to regional delicacies, Ankara promises a culinary journey filled with tantalizing flavors and unique dining experiences. While I may not have been able to provide an extensive review of Ankara's food scene, it is clear that the city offers a wide range of culinary options for food enthusiasts. Exploring beyond the realms of Kizilay and Kavaklidere would surely unveil a rich drapery of flavors, for visitors to truly savor the vibrant gastronomic culture that Ankara has to offer.
The Tea
Turks literally live for tea. It’s a staple for every meal, commonly served at any given time of the day. The tea tradition is deeply ingrained in the fabric of Turkish society, and this is evident in the prevalence of tea offerings in restaurants and establishments throughout the city. As it is considered impolite to decline when tea is offered, one would practically end up having it. But here’s the tea: you will never know if it’s complimentary or comes with a charge, until the bill reveal. This element of surprise adds a unique twist to the tea-drinking experience and keeps people on their toes when settling the bill.
The significance of tea in Turkish culture extends beyond its mere consumption. It has deep historical roots, tracing back to the Ottoman Empire when tea was first introduced to the region. Over time, tea became deeply intertwined with social customs and gatherings, evolving into a symbol of hospitality and friendship. Hence, it is not uncommon to see groups of people engaged in lively conversations over a steaming cup of tea, fostering connections and strengthening bonds.
Ankara, as the capital of Turkey, plays a significant role in promoting and preserving the tea culture of the country. From quaint tea houses to bustling cafes, the city offers a plethora of venues where locals and visitors can immerse themselves in the tea-drinking tradition. Whether it's sipping tea while taking in the panoramic views of the city or engaging in lively discussions with newfound friends, experiencing the tea culture in Ankara provides a glimpse into the rich history and social fabric of the Turkish people.
Greens and Grins
Ankara stands out for its remarkable abundance of parks, a characteristic that becomes immediately apparent even by simply exploring Google Maps. The city boasts an impressive array of leisurely sites dispersed throughout its landscape. What is particularly noteworthy is the Turkish government's commitment to prioritizing the enhancement and practical value of these parks, resulting in their widespread establishment. The emphasis placed on the overall beautification of Ankara demonstrates the government's commitment to creating accessible spaces that promote a healthy and active lifestyle.
This approach to urban planning and park development sets a commendable example for other cities worldwide. Ankara's abundant parks not only contribute to the city's aesthetics but also play a vital role in enhancing the quality of life for its inhabitants. The inclusion of public amenities encourages people of all ages to engage in outdoor activities, fostering a sense of well-being and social interaction. These green spaces also provide a serene escape from the bustling urban environment, offering a respite where individuals can connect with nature and rejuvenate their spirits. Whether it's a morning jog, a family picnic, or simply finding solace amidst lush surroundings, Ankara's parks offer a multitude of experiences that enrich the lives of its residents.
I guess, the Manila Bay X dolomite team, has a lot to learn from here.
Back in time
Ankara's architectural landscape encompasses a diverse range of structures that showcase the city's rich history and cultural heritage. From the 1960s buildings in Ulus to iconic landmarks like Anitkabir and Ankara Kalesi, the city is a treasure trove of architectural wonders. Mosques standing as architectural marvels and other structures further contribute to Ankara's architectural wealth, creating a captivating view and craftsmanship.
Exploring the city on a random city tour offers glimpses into the vibrant Anatolian civilization. The architectural styles and elements found throughout Ankara reflect the region's colorful history and cultural influences. However, for a more comprehensive understanding of this aspect, museums play a crucial role, providing immersive experiencea and allowing visitors to delve deeper into Ankara's architectural heritage. The city's museums serve as a testament to the locals' commitment to preserving and celebrating their cultural heritage. These institutions meticulously display artifacts, architectural models, and historical exhibits that not only educate but also convey a sense of pride and reverence for their ancestors.
From traditional Anatolian structures to modernist buildings, Ankara's architectural wealth reflects the city's evolution over time. Each edifice carries with it a story and a connection to the past, embodying the spirit of the people who built them.
Ingilizce?
In addition to Ankara's architectural wonders and rich cultural heritage, it is important to note that language can be a significant barrier for tourists in the city. Throughout my two-week stay, I found myself relying on a handful of basic Turkish words, with Ingilizce, being most memorable due to its frequent use. It became the go-to phrase for communication, the first line of defense so to say, and it’s always a huge relief when the answer is a yes.
The reality is that English proficiency among the local population in Ankara is relatively low, with only a small fraction of people being fluent in the language. Engaging in conversations, seeking directions, or attempting to convey specific needs can sometimes be met with confusion or difficulty due to the language gap. As a traveler in Ankara, it is not essential but highly recommended to be prepared for this language barrier and to find ways to navigate it. Just like in any foreign travel destination, learning a few key phrases in Turkish, such as greetings, basic questions, and expressions of gratitude, can go a long way, especially in demonstrating respect for the local culture.
TRY and try
The currency in Turkey is the Turkish Lira aka TRY, equivalent to around 6 PHP / 0.1 EUR at the moment. This is very much advantageous from a tourist
standpoint as compared to its equivalent a few years ago. The volatility in
Turkish markets, uncertainty in domestic politics, security concerns, and the
ongoing pandemic must have seriously impacted the tourist industry. Thus, I
think it is highly encouraged for tourists to visit Turkey during these days. Although tons of patience for the Turkish Visa processing is required, being an adventure in itself
for someone who isn’t a Schengen Visa holder yet. Application may be a long
shot at the moment but is always worth the try. Watching vlogs and reading
guides for pointers will surely help.
Beyond Ankara
Ankara, the capital city of Turkey, often gets overshadowed by its more popular counterpart, Istanbul which often steals the spotlight. It may not be a familiar name when planning a trip to Turkey, especially when compared to the likes of Cappadocia, Izmir, or Antalya. Ankara, despite its perceived "boring" reputation, has a charm of its own. The city offers a unique blend of historical and modern elements, with landmarks like Anitkabir standing tall as a symbol of the nation's heritage. Exploring the city reveals its hidden treasures, from picturesque parks and gardens to bustling local markets brimming with authentic Turkish experiences.
My experience in Ankara has left me yearning for a return visit in the near future. Again, at first glance, Ankara may seem unassuming, lacking the charm of some of Turkey's more renowned destinations. It has that air of being a one-and-done type of place, lacking the vibrant energy that captivates travelers. But who am I to complain when it gave me what I exactly needed (an Estonian D-visa) with an opportunity for a side trip all the more? With that, I cannot overlook the gratitude I feel towards Ankara for being that last puzzle piece in the long road towards this Erasmus journey. It provided me with the necessary things, from paperwork and resources to activate and jumpstart this exciting adventure ahead.
So, here's a heartfelt thank you to Ankara. You may not be the most talked-about city in Turkey, but you provided me with the key. Reflecting on it, I am reminded that every destination has its own unique value, and sometimes even the unassuming ones leave lasting impressions.
