Embarking on foreign travel has become an elusive and nearly impossible feat in recent times. Still, no thanks to covid. However, fortune smiled upon me when I stumbled upon a rare opportunity to journey to Ankara, Turkey – an unlikely destination that had only resided in the recesses of my memory from those days when memorizing the capital cities was a necessity. Little did I know that this unforeseen detour, a prerequisite side trip, would turn out well and fine, before reaching my intended destination. Despite the uncertainties surrounding obtaining a Turkish visa and the disconcerting news of terrorist attacks and geopolitical tensions in recent years, my determination remained unscathed, because well, this step is required.
Two weeks of immersion in this city was enough to
have a glimpse of the rich Anatolian culture – from their fascinating
architecture, unique regards to traditional arts, good food, and even Turks’ borderline
short temper. Everywhere I turned, I was greeted by captivating architecture that whispered stories of the past; from the grandeur of historic landmarks to the humble abodes tucked away in winding alleyways, each structure bore witness to a rich and storied heritage. But it was not just the physical beauty that's enrapturing, but also the reverence for traditional arts that permeated every corner of Ankara. Whether it was the melodic strains of traditional music, the delicate brushstrokes of masterful paintings, or the intricate craftsmanship of handmade crafts, the city embraced its cultural legacy with unwavering pride.
They’ve got fast cars, fast enough to fly away
I’ll start with the thing I like the least
about Ankara: the abundance of cars.
Wraps and Rolls
On the plus side is the extensive Turkish food options. Though going for dine-ins most of the time
for two weeks around Kizilay and Kavaklidere, I still could not sufficiently
claim that I was able to experience Ankara food enough to give a fair review, but
enough to grow tired of it, at some point, altogether. On the exceptional downside, is their
huge affinity to food wrappers which was beyond my preference. The extensive choice
of kneaded, shaped, and rolled foods – like quesadillas, tavuklu wraps, baklavas
even – are best suited for lumpia shippers and turon stans for sure, but not
for me, unfortunately.
Despite my reservations about the wrapped food culture, Ankara's culinary landscape actually offers much more than what I was able to explore. The city hids gems and local specialties that I regrettably did not have the chance to fully discover (time- and budget-constrained). From traditional Turkish delights to regional delicacies, Ankara promises tantalizing flavors and unique dining experiences. Exploring beyond Kizilay and Kavaklidere would surely unveil a rich drapery of flavors, to truly savor the gastronomic culture down to its core.
The Tea
The significance of tea in Turkish culture extends beyond its mere consumption. It has deep historical roots, tracing back to the Ottoman Empire when tea was first introduced to the region. Over time, it became deeply intertwined with social customs and gatherings, evolving into a symbol of hospitality and friendship. Hence, it is not uncommon to see groups of people engaged in lively conversations over a steaming cup of tea, fostering connections and strengthening bonds. Safe to say, Turks literally live for tea. It’s a staple for every meal, commonly served at any given time of the day. The tea tradition is deeply ingrained in the fabric of Turkish society, and this is evident in the prevalence of tea offerings in restaurants and establishments throughout the city. As it is considered impolite to decline when tea is offered, one would practically end up having it (which happened to me, very so often). But here’s the tea: you will never know if it’s complimentary or comes with a price. The bill reveal, surely adds a unique twist to the tea-drinking experience, well at least for me.
Greens and Grins
Ankara also stands out for its remarkable abundance of parks, a characteristic that becomes immediately apparent to me while exploring Google Maps. The city boasts an impressive array of green leisurely sites dispersed throughout its landscape. Particularly noteworthy is the Turkish government's commitment to prioritizing the enhancement and practical value of these parks. This approach to urban planning and park development sets a commendable example for other cities worldwide. These green spaces provide a serene escape from the bustling urban environment, offering a respite where individuals can connect with nature and rejuvenate their spirits. Whether it's a morning jog, a family picnic, or simply finding solace amidst lush surroundings, Ankara's parks offer a multitude of experiences that enrich the lives of its residents. I sure took many chances to experience some of these parks, and I guess, the Manila Bay X dolomite team, has a lot to learn.
Back in time
Ankara's architectural landscape encompasses a diverse range of structures that showcase the city's rich history and cultural heritage. From the 1960s buildings in Ulus to iconic landmarks like Anitkabir and Ankara Kalesi, the city is a treasure trove of architectural wonders. Mosques standing as architectural marvels and other structures further contribute to Ankara's architectural wealth. Exploring the city on a random city tour offers glimpses into the rich Anatolian civilization, especially with the architectural styles. And for a more comprehensive understanding of this aspect, museums are the best bet. These institutions meticulously display artifacts, architectural models, and historical exhibits that not only educate but also convey a sense of pride and reverence for their ancestors. From traditional Anatolian structures to modernist buildings, Ankara's architectural wealth, each edifice carries a story and a connection to the past. And what more could we ever ask?
Ingilizce?
In addition to Ankara's architectural wonders and rich cultural heritage, it is important to note that language can be a significant barrier for tourists. Throughout my two-week stay, I found myself relying on a handful of basic Turkish words, with Ingilizce, being most used. It became the first line of defense for obvious reasons, and it’s always a huge relief when the answer is a yes. The reality is that English proficiency among the local population in Ankara is relatively low, with only a small fraction of people being fluent in the language. Engaging in conversations, seeking directions, or attempting to convey specific needs can sometimes be met with confusion or difficulty due to the language gap. Hence, it is not essential but highly recommended to be prepared for this language barrier and to find ways to navigate it. Just like in any foreign travel destination, learning a few key phrases in Turkish, such as greetings, basic questions, and expressions of gratitude, can go a long way.
TRY and try
The currency in Turkey is the Turkish Lira a.k.a. TRY, equivalent to around 6 PHP / 0.1 EUR at the moment. This is very much advantageous from a tourist
standpoint as compared to its equivalent a few years ago. The volatility in
Turkish markets, uncertainty in domestic politics, security concerns, and the
ongoing pandemic must have seriously impacted the tourist industry. Thus, I
think it is a high time to visit Turkey during these days. Although tons of patience for the Turkish Visa processing is required, being an adventure in itself
for someone who isn’t a Schengen Visa holder yet. Application may be a long
shot at the moment but is always worth the try. Watching vlogs and reading
guides for pointers will surely help.
Beyond Ankara
Ankara, the capital city of Turkey, often gets overshadowed by the more popular Istanbul, which often steals the spotlight. It may not even be a popular choice when compared to the likes of Cappadocia, Izmir, or Antalya. But despite its perceived "boring" reputation, Ankara has a charm of its own, offering a unique blend of historical and modern elements, with landmarks like Anitkabir standing tall as a symbol of the nation's heritage. My experience in Ankara has left me yearning for a return visit in the near future. At first glance, Ankara may seem unassuming. It has that air of being a one-and-done type of place. But who am I to complain when it gave me what I exactly needed (an Estonian D-visa) and an opportunity for a side trip all the more? I could never overlook the gratitude I feel towards Ankara for being that last puzzle piece in the long road towards this Erasmus journey, providing me with the necessary tools, from paperwork and resources to activate and jumpstart this exciting adventure ahead.
So, here's a heartfelt thank you to Ankara. You may not be the most sought-after centerpiece, but you provided me far too much more than that: the key. And for that, you left in me lasting impressions.
